We woke up at 730ish grabbed some
breakfast at our breakfast spot and then went by the tiny general store to
resupply on food before heading up the main road a few kilometers to towards
the Mt. McIntosh trailhead. Both the woman who gave us a rides to our previous
tracks had recommended this one. They both said it was an amazing couple day
tramp with backcountry huts that were free, old mine shafts and spectacular
views and best of all had very light foot traffic.
Sure enough the trailhead was exactly
where they said it was! Once finding the beginning we gripped our newly
made walking sticks and started up into old scheelite mining country towards
snowy ridge lines. Scheelite is the raw material that tungsten comes from
and these mines were heavily used around WWII when the price of tungsten
skyrocketed due to the need for more gun barrels. Though this was once a busy
area these mineshafts have been abandoned for the last 70 years now. Along our
tramp we got to see old mine shafts full of rusty rail wheels and water
disappearing off into deep darkness (Photo 1). We got to see the old managers
lodge that was rusty and decaying yet still felt lived in (Photo 2). There were
strange concrete buildings that seemed straight out of a horror movie made
for god knows what. The thick heavy metal doors would howl a deep resonant tone
when opened that would reverberate through my full being (https://youtu.be/BNVdzYLnb3Q). We then headed down to a small river
before following switchbacks directly up a massive snowy mountainside. The snow
got progressively deeper as we gained altitude. About half way up we
encountered a pack of gorgeous wild goats that effortlessly scampered
up the steep snowy terrain. We stopped of at the McIntyre hut for lunch. This
hut was gorgeous with new clean bunks and an amazing view. From here we
continued up to the saddle where the snow was now mid calf deep. We continued
up the ridgeline another few hours until we reached the McIntosh
hut (Photos 3 and 4). This was an old miners hut that had been shifted to a
backcountry hut for trampers. It was an amazing old building with an incredible
view (Photo 5). There was no wood stove or means of heat in this hut so it was
incredibly cold. But even though it was drafty with holes in the roof that
allowed for piles of snow to accumulate indoors the thin walls did protect us
from the intense winds. We spent the night trying to stay warm, drinking tea,
eating dinner and weaving more Harakeke leaves. After dinner and hot chocolate,
with extra butter to give our bodies fuel to fight the cold through the night,
we were off to bed. It was a cold night that got down to around -10 to -15
degrees C. There were times my -15 degree sleeping bag started to lose the
fight against the cold but after a long fight we all made it safely to the
morning light. We awoke to find our boots frozen solid and our socks frozen
into solid tubes that kept their from when removed from the hooks where we
had hung them to dry (https://youtu.be/nom5ArYqdIU). We had a hearty breakfast and then spent a long time trying
to open our icy solid shoes enough fit our feet in. Finally we were able to don
our frozen footwear and we started down the trail trying to keep our heart
rates up to keep our feet warm enough to thaw our shoes. We took a different
trail back to the main road that ridge lined the whole way down transitioning
from snowy peaks (Photo 6) to a very steep downhill that hugged a small wire
fence. This was a very dangerous way down in my opinion and we were surprised
that it was marked as a track. We had to grip the fence to prevent ourselves
from slipping in the deep snow. We passed Cliffs and areas where a wrong step
seemed like it could start a slide that would be hard to recover from. After
hours of carefully placed feet we all made it back down below the snowline into
alpine sheep pastures. We continued through the green fields and made it
back to the main road by around 1pm. Here we decided to hitchhike back to
Queenstown where we would spend the last few days before flying back to
Wellington. We were unsuccessful for nearly two hours. We went through many different
tactics that finally culminated in us standing in a line and sweeping our left
arms in a circle one after the other creating a wave and then using our right
hand to present the thumbs of our left hand. This was successful! We were
picked up by a woman from England who had lived in Glenorchy for the last 35
years and was heading to Queenstown to pick up groceries. She was an absolute
delight and got us back to the Butterfli backpackers within the hour!
We checked in and set up our tent (Photo 7) and then headed into town to try a burger at the famous Fergburger. I
got the Big Al, which was the biggest burger I have ever seen, which was
amazing and incredibly filling! We then headed back to Butterfli and crashed.
Photo 1 - Abandoned Mine Shaft
Photo 2 - Managers Lodge
Photo 3 - McIntosh Hut
Photo 4 - Inside McIntosh Hut
Photo 5 - Photo From In Front Of McIntosh Hut
Photo 6 - View From Ridgeline Track
Photo 7 - Campsite View From Butterfli
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